Message Board - BigPumpkins.com

Syracuse, NY

i'm rusty but not dusty on Mycorrhizal terminology lately.
i believe hyphae is plural for all the little tendril-like thingies that extend from and to the Mycorrhizal fungus.
roots or tentacles for lack of better terms.
someone else will correct the heck out of me by mid-morning, but i would think that there are a great number of fungus types that exist throughout the entire area in question, as they would have to be there in the first place to colonize any roots of any plants of any kind.
we just come along and inoculate the AG roots with special
kinds of Mycorrhizae that are especially suited for their
particular needs. i think blah blah blah GLOMUS is the variety we want on our pumpkin plants' roots, lol.
See also Holland, Joel: Bio-Grow Endo Plus----eric
See also Tremor, Smartest Guy Ever---no kidding! eric

12/30/2005 1:24:00 AM

Kevin Snyder (TEAM HAMMER)

Syracuse, NY

hyphae: the way to greet Faye Dunaway.
"Hi, Faye!"

12/30/2005 1:24:47 AM

Endomycorrhizal is the type you need for pumpkins, the ecto is useless for pumpkins

12/30/2005 7:11:10 AM

THE BORER

Billerica,Massachusetts

http://www.backyardnature.net/f/funghyph.htm

12/30/2005 7:51:15 AM

RootbeerMaker

NEPA [email protected] KB3QKV

Thanks everyone. Very good reading Borer. I am hoping Tremor will ring in. He is knowledgeable on these things and very informative. I never corresponded with Joel Holland but I am sure that he knows also and a message from him would be more than welcome. I am trying to learn as much as I can but with this hole in my head it may all leak out LOL.

12/30/2005 10:23:13 AM

docgipe

Montoursville, PA

Hyphae is hosted, by the roots, of the plant. Hyphae grows even faster than the root itself. That is why a single innouculation, in the potting soil and/or the seedling planting hole is all that is needed, for the entire plant. By the time the next vine root is touching the soil the hyphae will be there waiting, to be hosted. The only thing that can break or destroy this hosting association is the presence, of residule fungicide, killing the spores and preventing hyphae from forming in the first place.

It is an amazing association. If spore can develop the association is absolute. From that point hyphae has the ability to avoid pathegons and even fungicides.

Hyphae does for the roots exactly what the roots themselves would have done.....but hyphae does it even better because they or it can avoid problems the natural root alone can not.

Mycorrhizae, in the spore, form has a shelf or patch life of up, to three years. Neither mycorrhize, in the spore form or hyphae can develop without the specific host plant. Therefore if you are following pumpkins with pumpkins your added innoculants are not needed. The spore without chemical destruction or invasion will be there, to develop the association, in the following year.

The additional need for less water, less fertilizer and less minerals is a benefit claimed, by all makers, of Mycorrhizae.

12/30/2005 10:31:48 AM

Syracuse, NY

and, there you have it!
best explanations ever. now you know all about it---eric

12/30/2005 5:05:29 PM

Big Kahuna 26

Ontario, Canada.

Doc, "The only thing that can break or destroy this hosting association is the presence, of residule fungicide, killing the spores and preventing hyphae from forming in the first place".

IMHO, Levels of P higher than 50 ppm are know to decrease Mycorrhizae, activity in the soil.

For more information please refer to the study listed below.

"Prior to inoculating soil with mycorrhizae, a soil test should be conducted. If phosphorus levels are greater than 50 ppm the addition of mycorrhizae will likely be ineffective.......Foliar applications of phosphorus therefore should be avoided when inoculating soil with mycorrhizae".

http://www.coopext.colostate.edu/TRA/PLANTS/index.html
#http://www.colostate.edu/Depts/CoopExt/TRA/PLANTS/manure.html

12/30/2005 5:33:34 PM

Syracuse, NY

interesting, but AAAARRGGGHHH!!!
guess we'll skip the Miracle Grow for a minute...

12/31/2005 2:18:06 AM

RootbeerMaker

NEPA [email protected] KB3QKV

I am glad that I have asked questions recently that has entertained growers and helped us learn about growing pumpkins. With the use of Mycorrhizae, how do yo know when there is enough water and minerals in the ground? Seems like you would have to be very careful on what you do in the garden or you will render things ineffective and then slow down many things that you are trying to achieve.

12/31/2005 5:45:30 AM

docgipe

Montoursville, PA

Mycorrhizae is or was a natural group, of fungi, within most soils. It was not lost, from the soil until man desided, to use methods that prevented it's natural maintenance within the soil. If we have screwed up so badly that a natrual former component, of our soil, can not be reintroduced we are indeed, in a sorry state. Ask the folks that spew all the goodies that kill or prevent mycorrhizae , to function how, to build your soil into a condition that it can once again perform it's natural purpose.

12/31/2005 10:10:41 PM

Doug14

Minnesota([email protected])

I like the answer in Eric's second post.
It's nice to have some good, clean humor.
I think Eric's full of it.....humor that is;-)

12/31/2005 10:37:30 PM

Lots of things can kill mycorrhizae & many have been touched on in this thread already.

Excessive P levels (as Russ pointed out)
High salt fertilizers
Most systemic fungicides-especially drenches (as Dwaine pointed out)
Drought conditions
Extemes of temperatures
Excessive addition of orgnaic materials
Excessive or poorly timed tilling/ploughing

It used to be that Chlordane, Temic & other lovely hydrocarbons were applied excessively & this caused all sorts of soil biology issues that some soils still haven't recovered from entirely. These insecticides are no longer in use.

In general, no productive soil has ever been tortured so badly it can't recover.

Doc summed up the benefits very well.

Here's a link that also simplifies the hyphae/mycorrhizae relationship pretty well by using illustations:

http://www.backyardnature.net/f/mycorhza.htm

continued

1/1/2006 2:04:42 AM

Hyphae is tecnically a plants smallest root hairs which make the most contact with soil. They are the parts of the root system that are so small we cannot see them with the naked eye. The don't *NEED* mycorrhiza to grow, but they are more efficient with it. Mycorriyzae is a fungus which grows symbiotically in a physical attachment with these fine root hairs. They need the plant to live & the plant benefits from this relationship too. The fungal strands are hyphae themself & create a working extension to the roots making their area of absorption much larger than it could otherwise be all be itself. Thus the existing root system can obtain more water & soil bound nutrients than it could on its own.

Ectomycorrhizae live on the outside of root hairs & primarly colonize & benefit conifer & oak trees. We are concerned with Endomycorrhiza of which certain species penetrate into the roots of our AGs

Here is a link that summarizes which fungicides destroy the VAM mycorrhizae we're most concerned with:

http://www.planthealthcare.com/feov.html

Some crops really thrive with mycorrhizal inoculants. Strawberries respond more than any other crop. Pumpkins are only moderately influenced at best & then only when existing soil conditions permit.

1/1/2006 2:04:49 AM

Peace, Wayne

Owensboro, Ky.

Steve, do strawberries use ecto or endo? My strawberries have been a little puny the last year or two. Can I apply the needed mychorrhizal innoculant to existing plants? Thanks for all the help!!! Peace, Wayne

1/1/2006 7:48:26 AM

Endo...same as pumpkins. Ecto is mostly found on trees.

1/1/2006 9:39:29 AM