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Subject:  Round Up?

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steelydave

Webster, NY

I'm sure this has been asked before, but I can't remember the answer. Can I spray the weeds in my patch now, as long as I have about 3 - 5 weeks before actually planting the pumpkins and help get rid of them that way. Will the pumpkins be safe if I wait the 4 or 5 weeks after spraying round up or some other weed and grass killer?

Thanks for any information you guys can give me.

Dave

4/15/2006 6:15:11 PM

UnkaDan

Roundup only kills what you spray it on(systemic), no residuals to effect what you plant.

4/15/2006 6:38:28 PM

CountyKid (PECPG)

Picton,ON ([email protected])

Roundup Is a contact sparay only and is deactivated as soon as it hits the soil. You can spray the day before planting if you like! I would recomend letting the weeds grow a while, then hit with roundup. Keep in mind that annual weeds are controlled just as easily by pulling or tillage. Some perennial weeds and grasses like quack grass are best controled with an application of Roundup!

4/15/2006 6:38:34 PM

Jon N.

Central Oklahoma ( [email protected])

I just got through spraying some around the patch. It wont hurt anything but what it gets on. Also If the weeds are tall its better to cut them first and then spray. Thats the way I do it anyways so I dont use so much material.

4/15/2006 7:04:02 PM

steelydave

Webster, NY

Thank everyone. I think I'll spray tomorrow then do some tilling later in the week.

Dave

4/16/2006 9:03:26 AM

dcross

Kiel WI

Make sure it's just Roundup, some of the "improved" varieties have residual control.

4/16/2006 10:37:09 AM

steelydave

Webster, NY

Thanks again, I was actually going to use a round-up clone. I'll make sure it's round up.

4/16/2006 12:01:45 PM

Tremor

[email protected]

RoundUp clones are fine. Just make sure that the only ingredient is GLYPHOSATE & no trouble will come of it.

4/16/2006 8:39:22 PM

scienceteacher

Nashville, TN

Anyone notice that Roundup's not as effective as it used to be? My father and I were discussing this during our Easter visit. Seems that both of us have had to double the concentration just to kill your average lawn weed.

besides 2-4D - Which still does wonderfully on broadleaf weeds. Does anyone have a suggestion on a total-kill herbicide? (broadleaf and grass)

4/17/2006 4:27:23 AM

Tremor

[email protected]



Dave,

Glyphosate containing herbicides may be used any time prior to planting but weeds should be left undisturbed for a week after treatment to avoid disrupting the translocation of the active ingredient. This is especially true of woody or older vining weeds.

Glyphosate is like most herbicides in that it works best on young actively growing weeds. These offer the highest kill rate in the least time since they are translocating everything so rapidly & the active ingredient has a smaller distance to travel.

Reasons for poor results include:

Older plants may have extensive parts too remote for transport.
Late season may have a waxy cuticle which is difficult to penetrate.
Drought stressed plants may not fully translocate the glyphosate.
Glyphosate resistance is a reality in certain high use areas.
Difficult to control weeds may be all that is remaining in the target area.

continued

4/17/2006 7:34:25 AM

Tremor

[email protected]

So try to target young weeds. If drought conditions exist, start irrigating the area 1-2 weeks before treatment. If you're not using one of the newer Monsanto formulations then make sure add a good surfactant especially an organosilicone based material. Cheap clones often have little or no surfactant while Monsanto keeps adding more &/or better quality surfactants.

I was involved with a glyphosate efficacy test back in the early '90's. We were trying to establish the causes for poor efficacy. We ended up measuring the herbicide's transport path within the targeted weeds. Under ideal conditions the herbicide was detectable at lethal doses up to 14-16" from the point of application. However in certain plants & under environmental stress, the herbicide was under the lethal dose just 6" from the point of application.

Rhizomatous, heavy stoliniferous &/or vining weeds with nodes located 6-12" away from the treated vegetation would inevitably grow back vegetatively some time after treatment.


There is no current systemic herbicide replacement for Glyphosate since everything else leaves behind some amount of active residue that could affect the desired crop if used too close to planting. So make sure to know the residual & plan accordingly if another active is used.

Scienceteacher, What kind of weeds are you having trouble with?

4/17/2006 7:34:31 AM

steelydave

Webster, NY

Lot's of good information Tremor. Thanks, I sprayed this morning and plan to wait until the weekend to till. Any weeds left after that will have to come out the old fashioned way, by hand.

4/17/2006 1:06:37 PM

Tremor

[email protected]

You know Dave....I just noticed that you're in New York....it's also pretty cold in New York right now. I doubt that many weeds are activley growing at these temps. So again....hit or miss results. Best weed kills are usually in mid-late May up your way.

4/17/2006 6:18:30 PM

StL Kenny

Wood River, IL ([email protected])

Steve,

could you tell me what the differenceis in all the round-up
products? I think there trying to confuss me with all the different packaging! And are the ortho products, "weed-b-gone" & "season long" products about the same. Is one stronger than the other. The season long products probable shouldn't be used in the pumpkin patch, is that right?

Thanks Kenny

4/18/2006 6:51:23 AM

Tremor

[email protected]

I pay little to no attention to the consumer product groups so have little to contribute to the Ortho line. I do know it is not the same as the original Monsanto lines. I also know that Scott's owns the Ortho name & has an exclusive agreement with Monsanto for consumer goods. Scott's also enjoys the highest Gross Margins in the green industry....nuff said?

In an effort to maintain profits, Monsanto has been reinventing Roundup ever since the patent ran out. The ONLY difference between the commercial grades is the percent active (usually 41%) & the amount of surfactant that is added during bottling.

I've become partial to the new QuikPro Dry that is sold in the 6.8 lb jug. It is 73.3% Glyphosate & 2.9% Diquat in an outstanding dry surfactant. Great stuff & very fast acting. Too often speedy herbicides fail to translocate & thus result in a poor kill. But this hasn't been our experience with QuikPro.

Plus with Dry formulations if you do happen to spill some, you can sweep it up rather than deal with a liquid mess. Very eco-friendly.

4/18/2006 5:01:44 PM

pumpkinpal2

Syracuse, NY

now, THAT is innovative!
to the (Roundup) store i will go!

4/18/2006 7:18:02 PM

Total Posts: 16 Current Server Time: 11/6/2025 5:48:25 AM
 
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