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I have been doing alot of pondering about the calcium wraps I have been using this year. In one moment, I find myself thinking (and reading about) how calcium helps "strengthen" the walls of the fruit, expecially at saglines, dill rings, and deep ribs. Then, the next moment I find myself wondering how my monster "Len" went down this year and I seem to come to the same conclusion, calcium wraps.

While the calcium will help build up strong walls, the problem is like a steroid, it is good, but with some side effects. I feel, with the location of the 3 (yes I said 3) cracks/splits in my 898 fruit, the top has become so heavy from calcium wraps. Strength is one thing, but starting to collapse from its own weight begs me to ask, why is the top so heavy that the sides can not support the weight? Again, I think calcium wraps.

Any thoughts?

My diary which I am updating today will show the spots of the 3 problem areas, making me to believe that once you start having a problem, calcium may be the "last" thing you want to put on in a wrap fashion to help you.

8/27/2006 1:05:23 PM

Lymington UK

Hi Rock
My calcium wrap experiment was 14 days old on Friday so they were sent off to the labs for testing. Hopefully I will get some results back by the end of next week. Have a look on my diary for a little more information.
Ian P

8/27/2006 5:25:57 PM

Montoursville, PA

Hey Rocky..........aside from your deliberations I see no sand packing at the bottom sides "> <" This sand packing when firmly in place supports weight from the downward thrust. It helps prevent stress on the segments most noted in the top where it rounds over. Tony Ciliberto also thought it may help prevent bottom cupping. When the bottom cups that is space that will not fill because it reduces inside space.

8/27/2006 7:59:32 PM

Western NY

I've also wondered if i'm overdoing it on the calcium, but my problems are more with the plant. I've been having a lot of big vines that snap under their own weight as they grow, and just are not very flexible when trying to position things.

i wouldnt worry about the absence of sand. i have seen some very nicely sanded ones still develop dill rings and/or splits.

8/27/2006 8:13:26 PM

[email protected]

I believe that these are all valid points. Support, genetics, environment, nutrient availability & good old fashioned LUCK all play a roll.

Sand + pulp mill fabric I KNOW can help keep a fruit from *rolling* on istself. Good packing builder's sand may offer better support to the bottom which could also make the tie-breaking influence.

Rapid temperature changes...too rapid growth from high Nitrogen or Potassium...moisture extremes either way...I'm sure the genetic gurus can list the crosses that are most prone to splits too.

The list of possible influences is a long one.

If Ian's lab test is to determine the %Calcium of the finished fruit's flesh I'd love to see the results.

But a whole lot of identical clones would need to exhibit a demonstrable change in weight & split incidence before we can say with certainty that Calcium wraps either help or hinder the outcome.

Why do my 2 cents always run closer to $1.00? LOL

8/27/2006 9:36:39 PM

ENGLAND

Back in 1996 i used the Calcium Wrap idea on my 662 Pumpkin. Now, take in mind that there was very little internet access at that time, this idea was not easily broadcast and from memory was not discussed in any Growers Groups Newsletters that i used to receive. I heard about Calcium absorbtion in Melons from a commercial glasshouse melon grower sometime during the summer of 1995 and decided to give it a try on any Pumpkins i grew the following year.

The method i used was a blanket, that was soaked in a Calcium and Boron solotion (a minute amount of Boron)and wrapped around every inch of the Pumpkin with the exception of the stem and a 4 to 5 inch diameter area around the blossom end. This blanket was removed for most of the day and re-soaked in the evening prior to replacing before complete cover over with a plastic sheet then another 2 to 3 layers of blankets.

When the 662 was eventually weighed it was something like 18.5 % over est, had no splits or cracks, and when cut in half had quite even wall thickness. Now, is the fact that the whole Pumpkin was covered with the Calcium Wrap the reason why the wall thinkness was quite even and there were no splits or cracks or is it just down to genetics?

8/28/2006 7:29:57 AM

Montoursville, PA

I knew this was going to get interesting. Keep it going.

8/28/2006 10:27:18 AM

Western Pa.

I am not a botanist, but I have observed some rather large AG's that were treated with Calcium wraps. The stems of the pumpkins looked "calcified" and distressed, as if attacked by a sort of cancer. Was the Calcium good for the pumpkin , but bad for the stem?

8/28/2006 11:54:31 AM

Monrovia, CA

What percentage of Calcium do you use for the wrap? I have sprayed calcium from a bottle a few times. Is this just as good or should it be wrapped?

Thanks!

8/28/2006 12:41:29 PM

Lymington UK

A photo of the butternut squash in the diary tonight. I hope you all realise that this is part of my favourite autumn dinners I’m giving up LOL

8/28/2006 3:27:19 PM

NEPA [email protected] KB3QKV

I do not know how many times I have heard on this web site to do everything in moderation. Especially if it is new to you. Just like anything else in life, even something that is good for you can be a little hazardous if too much is used. I am using less than the specified amount. I do not know if this is right or wrong but it seems to be helping mine.

8/28/2006 10:00:57 PM

Garden State Pumpkins

I wonder is a gypsum/sand mix would be better to sit the pumpkin on...If the calcium would actually shore up the bottom.

9/5/2006 8:33:02 AM