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Dummer Twp - Ontario

I'm seeing some different opinions on this. some say that if possible to plow over the patch as opposed to roto tilling it and this will help save all the beneficial worms that have come to live in the patch over the winter since last fall prep was done. What are your thoughts?

11/25/2006 5:31:39 PM

Cutting a worm in half does not make 2 worms, shallow tilling will incorporate top dressed material(if done when applied b4 the worms come to feed on it) but heavy deep tilling at any time of the year is NOT beneficial to a productive soil IMO.
Plowing does less damage to the "squirmy" population and turns under whatever you have added during fall prep while resuppying oxygen to the beneficials and returning some of the leached nutrients and minerals to the top.
Spring tooth harrowing and chisel plowing are 2 options that are worth consideration as well. These don't turn the material under but rather mix it with the soil to the substrate depth and once again add oxygen.
One thing to always consider, the moisture content of the soil b4 any form of mechanical work.

11/25/2006 6:44:22 PM

Once your soil is "right" take the "no till" approach. Let those good critters do the work for you !!

This is one of my goals for next year, hopefully the spring tests will show that I am getting close to it.

11/25/2006 6:48:52 PM

Lexington, Ky

Since my first year as an AG grower and knowing that worms play a significant role in soil biology, I did some field research in my own patch. I have a large population of very fat night crawlers and the holes that they make in my dirt are very easy to backtrack. I've been able to trace many worm holes as deep as 12+ inches. Not sure if my sandy loam makes a difference? And those fat SOB's are extremely sensitive to man, whether it be my flashlight, my voice, my feet or my tiller. I seldom see any "tilled" worms in my patch.

I agree with Unk, once your soil is right, no till is correct.

I am of the opinion that in certain soils, worms are hard to kill!

11/25/2006 7:14:23 PM

Anamosa, IA [email protected]

Either plowing or rototilling can over time lead to a hard, compacted plow pan just below the depth of tillage. In some soils, this can severely limit rooting depth and internal soil drainage. If you think you may have a plow pan, you should consider deep subsoiling or chisel plowing before switching to notill. After that, I agree notill is best for your soil. The more you till, the faster your organic material will be converted to carbon dioxide and lost to the atmosphere. I have seen notill make great improvements in soil quality in many Iowa crop fields. If it works that well with just the crop residues being left on the soil, think how much better your soil will be with the addition of mulches and compost.

11/25/2006 9:56:53 PM

Montoursville, PA

Right on target here however continous cover crop or mulch is an abslolute must to continue improving month to month and year to year.

Cover crops are cut in place and let fall in place. Additives are added and then mulched over. Planting then becomes through the mulch into the soft excellent soil that is ready to serve the plant needs.

Before just jumping in read as much as possible on the technique of no till.

11/26/2006 11:05:32 AM

Deer Park WA

All right! excellent post! As unkadan stated if your soil is right take the no till approach. We are currently working an old cover cropped patched. First we knock down the mature Winter Rye, Buckwheat, (miscl.) with a disc and let it sit, Winter Rye starts coming up then we add a couple inches of steer manure (over frover soil). Thats it until spring then we add fertilizers/amendments, plow the top 6" and wait three weeks, then use a John Deere CC Cultivator over the whole mess. Of course this is over an established rock free garden. We wore the teeth off our tiller in the same patch several seasons ago just to bust up the native ground...

11/26/2006 11:25:40 PM

Deer Park WA

That spread the manure over "frozen soil" ....

11/26/2006 11:26:48 PM

Napa Valley, CA

At the end of the growing season I till to a depth of about 3" to loosen up the adobe soil so I can add some manure and compost. I rake it smooth and then sow my winter rye cover crop.

In the spring I mow my cover crop and turn the entire patch
(1700 sq.ft.) to a depth of 10", using my flat blade pitchfork.
I then till only the top 2" to break up any adobe clods.
This shallow tilling does not seem to bother my worm population.
My worm count gets higher every year.

11/27/2006 1:25:50 AM

Montoursville, PA

Get and read: The No Work Garden Book, Ruth Stoudt (out of print). Ask your library to bring it in. Ruth was about 80 when starting to garden and at 90 something still gardening using a no till method although she did not call it that. In her spare time she wrote several books. Add this to you will do list this winter. It is light and easy to read and just full of pleasurable situation comedy.

11/27/2006 4:46:24 PM

Montoursville, PA

To sight a couple of Ruth's lines that tickels my funny bone are:
"To chase off experts ask them three questons". By the second most will turn tail and go hide".

Another: "The college agriculture sperts ask me if I thought my corn was a little off color". Her answer: "The corn don't talk and the eating part is the best I've ever grown".

I have often said if you read this garden book you never need to read another. :)

11/28/2006 7:36:19 PM

Rhode Island

ron and i bought a sub soiler that we attached to our small garden tractor. ( especially great on gardens that may be effected by hard pan due to excessive heavy equipment operation, etc.
works great, breaks up the sod deep enough to benefit the soil ( airation), yet not so deep as to disturb everything in its path like a roto tiller would.( the bar is narrow)

subsoiling, ( a 3" deep by 1" wide x 3ft long drag behind bar ) followed in spring by a shallow till is good enough to mix the ammendments in. you will not disturb the structure of soil and / or the micro organisms in this manner and, as mentioned above a great way to loosen the sub soil and allow it to breath.

pap

11/28/2006 8:02:24 PM

Sort of Sunny Sometimes, WA

This has been great info! Starting another new patch and wanting to really do it right this time,I'd like to thank you. You've given me tons of needed information.

11/29/2006 10:35:07 PM

Dummer Twp - Ontario

The info was great, thanks - Kirk

11/30/2006 3:11:28 PM

Pocatello ([email protected])

I've got a subsoiler for my tractor. Works great, except that now I need to move all the sprinkler lines to the outside of the garden space (100 X 180).

11/30/2006 4:57:09 PM